Crochet History

Like all innovations of the world, new ones are built upon older ones through discovery and the trading of knowledge with cultures both near and far. This is no different for modern crochet which can trace its evolution to multiple fiber crafts around the world. Without creative minds, new trade routes, and new inventions crochet would not be what it is today.

One of the main crafts that has influenced crochet is needle binding or nalebinding. This technique uses a single needle to bind stitches together into textiles. Early use has been found in Israel, Denmark, Egypt, and Peru and most likely evolved from earlier techniques for making fishing nets. Knitting, believed to have evolved from needle binding, is the use of two needles to create textiles.  Early signs of knitting have shown up in in Egypt and parts of Europe.   

Another important craft that influenced crochet is Tambour embroidery. Made popular in Europe by the French, this technique evolved from older forms of embroidery found in China, India, and Persia. Tambour embroidery uses a tool made of a handle and interchangeable sharp ended hooks (some refer as a needle and others a hook). Tambour is worked with thread on either solid fabric or an open net stretched over a frame like a drum.

Two crucial inventions to the production of cotton threads came in the second half of the 1700s. First was the invention of the Spinning Jenny in 1765 by James Hargreaves in England. This increased the number of spindles one person could manage at a time. Second was the invention of the cotton gin in Savannah Georgia in 1793. The invention is widely credited to Eli Whitney, though, according to an article from 1883, a woman named Catherine Greene, whose home Whitney was staying in at the time, was crucial to the invention. The cotton gin was designed to separate the cotton seeds from the fiber which was much faster than the current way of doing it by hand. These two inventions helped make cotton thread cheaper and more accessible to the masses. (Though heightened demand for cotton harvesting brought an increase in slave ownership in America.)

The earliest known written reference of crochet is “Shepherd’s Knitting” termed by Miss Grace Grant while living on Rothiemurchus estate in Strathspey, Scottish Highlands around 1812. The technique is described as looping created with a little hook to make cloak, caps, and other items. This is a sign that needle binding or knitting may have been adapted using a tambour like hook. The earliest known crochet patterns were published in 1824 by Penélope, a Dutch magazine. This issue included instructions for making three crochet bags (using stiches we use today) with a crochet or tambour hook.

In 1844 John Mercer came up with a treatment called Mercerization that improved the strength of yarns making them easier to work. Crochet lace increased in popularity and became a vital source of income in Ireland after the start of the Great Famine in 1845. Although patterns were closely guarded by their crafters, crochet became widely available in Europe and America over time, and popularity of crochet continued to increase into the 1920s.

During the world wars crochet saw a decline as resources were shifted to the war efforts. Fibers like silk became vital for making parachutes and other equipment due to its strength and durability. This results in the rise of synthetic fibers such as Rayon, Nylon, Polyester, and Acrylic. Crochet bounced back after the end of the second world war and continued through the 60s and 70s as synthetic yarns and new blends became widely available. The popularity of the granny stitch and granny square grew with the hippie movement and became part of mainstream fashion. However, the shift to 80s culture did not fit this folksy aesthetic. Popularity declined once again as fast fashion and cheap clothing and accessories filled closets.

In 1994 The Crochet Guild of America was established and the rise of the internet and social media allowed crochet techniques to spread even further. Growing concerns over fast fashion and its contributions to environmental pollution encouraged more diy clothing and slow fashion. The most recent factor to increase crochet popularity was people being confined to their homes during Covid. People stuck inside flocked to new crafts such as crochet and evolved it even further. Today the crochet community continues to grow and invent new techniques inspired by other crafts and cultures.